Hey there,
For Christmas I received a Kenko 1.4TC primarily for use on my Nikor 300f4 (nonAFS). I have been a little frustrated with it since I was unsure if my lack of sharpness was the TC's influence or my poor handholding technique. I was convinced it was technique and kept trying. I never really did any hardcore testing, it's not my nature, but came across this as a pretty good true test. After Shooting that Cowbird in the next post, I saw the light was good on a crocus. I took this shot, hand held f8 or 11 when you consider the TC. It was 1/1250 at ISO 400 and I leaned up against the house.



Then look at this 100% crop.



Now I know for sure the TC/300 combo has the potential and it is all my technique.

I did do a little post processing and there is some slight sharpening on this, but it definitely shows me that I need to improve my technique and get a good monopod.



Anybody want to share their techniques for shooting long glass?

Use a good, steady tripod along with a good ball head or a Wimbereley head for long lenses. Place your left hand on top of the lens over the ball head and press down slightly. This helps dampen the vibration cause by the mirror opening and closing. The longer the lens, the more it shows the vibration and magnifies any errors in technique. I used to use a AF300mmf/4 with Kenco 1.4 TC myself, but have since moved to the AFS300mmf/4 and Nikon TC-14E Teleconverter. The difference in focusing speed with my newer setup is amazing.

Jeff,
I've been using the Sigma 70-200 F2.8 with a Sigma 1.4 TC and have found that you just can't hand-hold this combination at maximum magnification and get decent results. As David says, it magnifies every movement even at high shutter speeds.

I've propped the combination on fences, buildings, against cages (at the zoo) and gotten fair results. But for sharpness you just can't beat putting the rig on a sturdy tripod with a good ball head. I even use a cable release to minimize vibration. And with that combination, I get acceptable results up to 11X14 prints.

Jim

I was pretty good handholding the 300 by it's self, but with the 1.4 and the loss of another stop I have exceeded my limits. Like I mentioned I was unsure at first, if it was me or the TC but, the above photos prove it's me:) The main reason I have yet to really use the tri/monopod to date is the moving targets. I am always shooting birds or small animals and to track them from tree to tree while keeping a pod on the ground was difficult. The second thing I found awkward was loosening the ball head for repositioning then tightening it for the shot was way to slow. Do you guys leave it on a minimal drag setting and never really fully tighten it? I mean for shooting the moon, I am hands free and remote, but for chickadees or hummingbirds, well, I am not that fast:) Am I missing something simple here, or are you referring more to a somewhat stationary subject?

Jim, I am always leaning up against stuff. A tree, rock, root, my knee anything that’s stable. Sometimes with work where I use the flash, I will hold on to a leg of the tripod for stability. Thanks.

David, I am surprised that the AF works better through the Nikon TC. I probably should have bought that one, but for now I will have to work with the Kenko. Again, to keep your hand on top of the lens, how do you adjust the ball head. Or do you just leave it a little stiff and move it without loosening the head?

With a good ball head, you can adjust the tension (drag) and still have the ball loose so that you can pan, go vertical, etc. I find that a ball head actually helps me on moving targets because it smooths out my motions (not so jerky). With the Wimberley head, you have even more freedom of movement.

The Nikon TC1.4E teleconverter is not compatible with the non AFS lens. The AFS lens focuses so much faster than the non AFS 300. No more hunting for focus.

Thanks David. I will have to try this. I don’t have one of the $500 ball heads, but the tension knob and pan knob on my Manfrotto 488 will allow me to do this. I can try that in the future and see if I can get the hang of it. So you just tighten the Ball tension for example, enough to allow you to move it, but if you let go of the camera it will stay put? Sounds simple enough:)

And I did not notice the jump from a Non AFS to the AFS lens in your previous post. I do love AFS, but I was not in the market for a 300f4AFS and had to make due with the regular version. I do love the lens, but the hunting can get on your nerves.

I've been using this exact combo for almost three years now (older 300mm and kenko teleconverter). Lens technique definitely helps, and handholding is almost out of the question with shutter speeds less than 1/1000 sec., which I never seem to encounter;)

I even read a lengthy discussion about the possibility of this combo yielding even MORE sharp results than without hte teleconverter, due to the recessed rear element in this lens; the coupling of the teleconverer may actually help.

I'll post a few bird pics I've taken with the combo, and describe the setup.

Chris, this is good news. I love sharpness and contrast when shooting birds and it’s why I went for the combo too. Well, I went for that deal on a Big Bang for the Buck too. I agree, I rarely find the 1/1000+ shutter speeds too, but I’ll keep looking. In fact that Crocus shot was at 1/1250” and exactly why I figured I got the shot. I will absolutely work on my tripod technique.

Thanks David. I just couldn’t justify the cost of the Big ball heads. If I ever sell some I may rethink it, but for my hobby they were just to much. I will however work with your recommendations on my current Ball Head and see what I can manage. I wish I could have afforded the AFS, like you said it would have been nice to have the speed.